Eat

San Diego Salsa

It’s funny how the twist and turns of life can take you to places you may never have gone. If you frequent these destinations often, the familiarity breeds a sense of belonging. I spent so many summers at my parents’ house in Myrtle Beach, it felt like home after a while. I knew the restaurants, hotels, and shops in my sons’ college towns. When they graduated, I felt the loss of these places in my life. 

If you have a loved one in the Navy, regardless of where he or she is stationed, you’ll certainly find yourself in San Diego from time to time. When he was Assistant Secretary of the Navy, Franklin D. Roosevelt proposed building a port here and making San Diego the Navy headquarters. Today, the Navy is part of the fabric of the city and what has brought me here the past year.

I’ve learned there’s more to this city than the perfect weather, the San Diego Zoo, Balboa Park, and Padres games. While all the former is truly wonderful, another main attraction are the tacos. 

Prior to the Mexican American War in 1846, San Diego was a part of Mexico, and the cultural influence is still apparent, especially in the markets and cuisine of Old Town, San Diego. There are many places to get tacos here, and whether you enjoy them from a shack on the beach or a restaurant in La Jolla, be prepared to eat the best tacos you’ve ever tasted. Homemade super-soft blue corn tortillas hold flaky battered fish, lime-and-tequila marinated pork and even tender short rib or lamb cradled in a hardened cheese shell. Who had this wonderful idea? I want to meet them.

Of course, the tacos and tortillas are enriched with a generous helping of salsa, and the salsas in San Diego are amazing as well. They’re all a little different as are the tacos, but that’s what makes a taco crawl here so enticing. 

I inquired about the dark smoky salsa at one place, and our server told me, “It’s just roasted tomato and onion.”

Sounded easy enough. 

I attempted a simple roasted tomato and onion version as I was advised, but it didn’t taste like the salsas of San Diego. I’m pretty sure there were a few more ingredients than just tomatoes and onion.

However, perseverance paid off, and I think this recipe is a good rendition. The trick to its success is to incorporate the charred blackened skin of the tomatoes into the salsa and to serve it very warm. 

I would never have tasted the tacos of San Diego if my son didn’t join the Navy. I wouldn’t have watched the F-18s fly over the Pacific, had a blast listening to the dueling pianos at the Shout House in the downtown, or seen the Pacific Harbor seals and sea lions lying by the sea caves. 

I wonder what other places are in my future and what treasures I will extract from them. 

San Diego Salsa

8 cups heirloom tomatoes or tomatoes on the vine, very ripe and juicy, cut into large wedges

1 cup white onion, chopped into big pieces

2 garlic cloves

1/3 cup cilantro, pressed into a measuring cup. Do not chop.

Juice of half of a lime

Half of a jalapeño with seeds

1 teaspoon coarse black pepper

2 teaspoons Kosher salt

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (you can opt out if you want mild salsa)

Preheat oven on roast to 350 degrees. Place the tomatoes (skin side up) and the onions on a large baking tray and roast for 25 minutes on the bottom rack of the oven. Turn oven to broil and cook until the skin on the tomatoes is charred, about 25 minutes. (Picture below)

Remove tomatoes and onions and let cool for 15 minutes. 

Place the tomatoes, onions, and the remaining ingredients in a food processor or blender and blend until almost smooth. 

Serve immediately or store in the refrigerator until ready to use. Don’t forget to warm the salsa before serving.

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