Tyler’s Potatoes

The potato feeds the world. First cultivated by the Incas, the Spaniards discovered the treasure upon conquering the tribe and introduced this unknown tuber to Europe. Inexpensive and easy to grow, the potato sustained generations of humans when there was little else to eat. The famed famine in Ireland resulted in a million deaths while bringing another million immigrants to the United States. My preferred choice of starch rarely includes the potato, but rather wonderful crusty breads or delicious pasta, so it stands to reason that I cannot get the potatoes served at the Perseus steakhouse in Florence out of mind. Here, the fat renderings from the magnificent Bistecca all Fiorentina—the steak from a Tuscan breed of cattle—are added to roasting potatoes infusing them with the most magnificent flavor. Creamy and decadent, they remain one of the best foods I have ever eaten.

The endless cooking possibilities of the potato include frying, roasting, mashing and baking, and its blandness provides the ideal canvas to which we add herbs, butter, garlic, bacon, creams, oils and cheese. Preparations range from the simple to the complex, hence it’s presence on every fast food menu as well as at Michelin star restaurants. And although I cannot reproduce the potatoes from Perseus, the next best thing is a dish my sister makes often because they are my nephew’s favorite. Vastly different from the Florentine potatoes, these boast a French flair and metamorphose from high-brow when accompanying a filet mignon to unpretentious when served alongside roast chicken. The simplicity of the preparation make them truly remarkable, and best of all, they reheat like a dream. 

Tyler’s Potatoes

Serves four

2 pounds small red bliss potatoes, about five cups

2 cups heavy whipping cream

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons Kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped chives 

Rinse the potatoes and place them in a microwave-safe bowl and fill with water until potatoes are covered halfway. Microwave on high for eight to ten minutes until potatoes are just fork-tender. Drain potatoes. Heat a large pot on medium heat, place potatoes in the pot and let steam until all the moisture in the potatoes is gone, about three minutes. While in the pot, take a potato masher or spatula and press into the top of each potato until the top of the potato breaks open. Add cream, Dijon mustard, salt and pepper, and stir. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer, and cook for another four to five minutes until half the liquid is reduced and the sauce thickens. Place on a platter and sprinkle with chives before serving.