Mussels with Tomato and Wine

My paternal grandmother refused to eat any fish with a shell referring to them as the “scum of the sea.” I could not understand her distain as often these dishes were the most expensive items on a menu. Indeed, shrimp, crab, oysters, mussels and yes, even lobster, are bottom dwellers, but to be fair, halibut, flounder and grouper take up residence in the neighborhood too. The thought of consuming fish that feed on parasites may not entice the appetite, but consider that these scavengers are high in omega-3 fatty acid, an essential component of human health. Regardless, they just taste so darn good whether raw, baked or steamed. I learned the secret to the most tender clams and mussels at a French restaurant when a waiter relayed the story of a pregnant patron who came to dinner craving mussels just to be disappointed that they did not appear on the evening’s menu. The chef had pulled the dish because the mussels at the market that morning were not small enough for his liking; large ones are inevitably chewy, fishy-flavored and utterly unforgiving. This lesson was reinforced years ago at a small outdoor café in Normandy as I was presented with an enormous bowl of teeny tiny molluscs happily drowning in a white wine broth topped with a generous scoop of créme fraiche. It tasted as good as it sounds. 

These inexpensive briny creatures are chock full of zinc, iron, vitamins A and B12 and protein and must be cooked within 24 hours of purchase. If you don’t care for mussels, tiny clams work just as well for the recipe below. Make sure you’ve got lots of crusty garlic bread and a good bottle of chardonnay on ice. 

Mussels with Tomato and Wine 

Serves 4

1/4 cup olive oil

1 cup fresh tomato, chopped

2 teaspoons Kosher salt

5 large garlic cloves, sliced

1 1/2 cups of clam juice

1 cup white wine

1/2 cup marinara sauce

2 pounds small mussels, soaked and cleaned

3 tablespoons fresh parsley, finely chopped

In a large pot, heat the olive oil. Add the tomato, garlic and salt and sauté on medium heat for five minutes until tomatoes soften and release their juice. Add the clam juice and white wine and raise the heat until the broth bubbles. Cook the wine down for 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in the marinara sauce and add the mussels. Cover and let mussels steam until they open, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the parsley and stir. Serve in large bowls with garlic bread for dipping.