Eat

Manono Hawaiian Salad

Papaya trees grow in the backyards of many homes in the quaint town of Kailua on the island of Oahu. My son, who took up residence there two years ago, found this somewhat disappointing. Why couldn’t mango trees, spiky pineapple plants, or heck, even a coconut tree, all of which abundantly cover the Hawaiian islands, populate his yard?

“Mom, what in the world do I make with papayas?” he asked. 

Honestly, I didn’t have an answer. The papaya arguably may be considered the ugly stepchild of tropical produce. The sweet, yet bland, orange fleshy fruit surrounding a display of alarming black shiny pearls struggles to find its identity and flavor somewhere between a mango and a cantelope. The poor thing can’t even stand alone, always being relegated to salsas or “tropical” smoothies. I thought they were included in recipes simply because they exist.

But when this northeast girl ventured to Hawaii earlier this year, keen to taste the papaya from a tree, I fell in love with this fruit. Hawaiian papayas are much smaller than those imported predominantly from Mexico. These island beauties fit perfectly in the palm of your hand and need just a squeeze of fresh lime juice to compliment their gentle cantelope-like flavor. 

One night in Kailua, I made dinner for family and friends. Chicken breasts and rib-eye steaks marinated in ponzu, lime and ginger over coconut rice were topped with a crunchy bright salad that paid homage to the tropical flavors I enjoyed during my time in Hawaii. I was sure to add extra papaya to the salad too, because I thought this forgotten fruit rightfully deserved to star in the show. 

Manono Hawaiian Salad

Dressing

1/4 cup Ponzu

Juice of one lime

1 tablespoon Yuzu juice

2 tablespoons creamy peanut butter

2 teaspoons minced ginger

2 tablespoons brown sugar

Half of a jalapeño, minced (optional)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

1/3 cup vegetable oil

Place all ingredients, except the oil, in a bowl and mix with a whisk. Slowly whisk in the oil until creamy.

Set aside or refrigerate for a day.

Salad

1 small head butter lettuce, chopped

1 cup chopped pineapple

1 cup thinly sliced cucumber

1/3 cup chopped red onion

1/4 cup chopped scallion

1 cup chopped ripe papaya

1/3 cup chopped cilantro

2 small avocados, chopped

1/2 cup chopped peanuts

Place all ingredients, except the peanuts, in a large bowl. Toss with dressing until well mixed. Sprinkle with peanuts before serving.

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